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The B&M gauge is not super accurate. I replaced mine because it was so off.
I'd get an AutoMeter electric FP gauge and use that to tune with.
If your FP is REALLY spiking to 100psi with just a bit of boost, your JR FPR could be toast.
BTW, Walbro GSS-318 or GSS-342??? They're both 255lph, but the 342 pumps against much higher pressures.
Greg
Oh, a GSS-342 I would assume, since it definitely pegs strong past 100. If I'm correct, the 317 runs out of steam at around 90psi.
BTW, Greg, awesome JRSC install site. You were one of the sites that helped convince me to go for the SC in the first place! I notice that we have a somewhat similar setup also from your sig. I also noticed you ditched the JR FPR and picked up a Cartech, even though you mentioned I should give the JR another chance! You must know something that I don't!
Another question for you (you may not know if you're not in CA) - have you ever measured emissions on your setup? I'm a bit freaked that the first time I bring my ride in to get smogged that they're going to slap a fat fine on my ass. Supposedly all the mods I have are 50-state legal, so I assume that means that I should meet smog specs.
A 317 can put the pressure past 100psi, but not for very long.
About the FPR, the fact that you could adjust it down to a proper static pressure is a good sign. When mine broke, they both were "stuck". Nothing I did to the adjuster would budge the pressure.
Your fuel pump is not CA legal. It isn't part of the official JR Kit now is it? http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif Do a search on emmisions. Several people have posted their results from smog roller testing and ways to reduce emmisions for the test.
Greg
I noticed my B&M guage wasn't very accurate either (although you almost have to buy theirs to get that nice little fitting). I have an electric Autometer fuel gauge as well and my readings between the two were always off maybe 4-6psi and the B&M didnt seem to hold a constant reading. I replaced the actual B&M gauge with a $20 VDO guage with the same thread and diameter and it shows constant pressure and is always exactly the same reading I'm getting on the Autometer unit.
As far as emmisions testing, I just recently had to take mine in for Ohio's "e-check" and they use the exhaust analyzing equipment to check for too much polution. I was worried, but it passed with flying colors.
I think the kit passes mostly because unless you get some idiot mashing the throttle during the test you never really get any boost and the ECU stays in closed-loop which maintains a clean burn.